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Sunday, November 13, 2011

Reader's letter - tourism shame

The walk into Junee Cave near Maydena
LAST month we had two ladies from Japan visit us and we spent time being “tourists” in our own state. Firstly we did a day tour of the Derwent Valley up to the Styx Tall Trees area near Maydena.

After phoning various departments to find out how to get there and what to see (as a tourist would) we ascertained that we could get to the Tall Trees area from the far side of Maydena. Preferring not to take the same road in as out, we enquired about the “round trip” using the road at Karanja almost opposite the sawmill. Nobody could tell us a thing about this road other than “there is a gate on it that could be locked and you may have to turn around.” Being intrepid we went in that way. A short way in we did see a gate but it would appear that it has not been closed for many years.

Eventually were delighted to arrive at the Styx Tall Trees area. Arriving at lunch time we got the Esky out but although there was a toilet it appeared that tables chairs and cover from the elements was not a priority. What a shame. A beautiful ferny area with some of Australia’s oldest tallest trees and well maintained walkways of timber and railings and several information boards, but nowhere to sit and eat. Very disappointing. The information sign tells you (if you came in from Maydena) “No exit from Styx Valley. Private road and locked gate 34km ahead” so nobody is really going to try it. What a shame.

Anyway we had been there, done that and headed into Maydena and sought out another local highlight: Junee Caves. This is a must do trip for visitors. For those that do not know, Junee Caves is a very interesting place where a mountain stream that empties eventually into the Derwent comes literally out of a hillside cavern. The system includes Niggly Cave, Australia’s deepest cave. There is a well maintained walkway with handrails through dense ferny bush leading to a viewing platform and information board. But the road in is an absolute eyesore: about 4km or so of roadside devastation. Trees laying on top of each other, like a bomb has hit them. Cleared for some reason I know not why. The bridge across the Junee River has been blocked by boulders meaning a long walk from the parking area to the cave, all right if you are fit, but not to be attempted if you are elderly or unfit. Again, no table, chairs or cover from the elements. What a shame. The entry to a fantastic icon is an absolute eyesore.

We chose not go into Mt Field as the National Park fees for a brief visit were too high, although there would have been tables and chairs and cover from the elements. So we headed back to New Norfolk, hoping for a nice area on the roadside to stop for afternoon tea. Westerway gave us some hope as there are tables and benches on the river's edge. But not a toilet in sight. Apart from that the next good stop off area to have a cuppa is in New Norfolk itself. What a shame.

Here we are, an acclaimed tourist area and we cannot provide facilities to make travel around our valley more pleasant. Even though we have the Derwent River running through the centre of the valley there are no real “happy friendly” parking spots to stop and view the river and orchards. Even the layby next to the railway bridge on the road from Bushy Park to New Norfolk has gone. What a shame.

Well that was our Styx Tall Trees trip as tourists. After that we went north to Burnie, Deloraine and then back home via the East Coast.  Places we could learn a lesson from.
Paul Beresford

6 comments:

  1. To get to the Styx Valley and Junee Caves they had to drive right past the excellent Possum Shed restaurant at Westerway. This is impossible to miss being right on the Gordon River road, the only road in, it is in an idyllic location on the Tyenna River, and has one of the best maintained toilets in Tasmania, very large with every comfort and complete with soothing piped music. Their coffee is excellent, and they are open 7 days October to March and 6 days in winter. Their statement that they had to wait until New Norfolk for a cuppa stretches credibility to breaking point - seriously, they need new glasses.

    Their points about the lack of investment in tourist facilities in the Styx Valley and Junee Caves are possibly valid, but keep in mind these are actually fairly isolated places with low tourist visitor numbers. Sure moniey should be spent, but where does the money come from? They may not have noticed that the economy of the area is somewhat depressed, and while they do try at Maydena, the returns on investment are low as is the capital available. Always easy to say "someone should spend some money on it" when it is not your money.

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  2. All good points Paul but that's not how I would have organised a tour out here.

    Bring your tourists out here to Mt Field first, there is a lovely BBQ area and cafe there. A mid morning meal would be wonderful followed by one of the many walks available.

    Upto Maydena, through the wilderness to the Caves is a lovely drive. Stop for a moment and enjoy a ride along the rail (at $25 a seat) if you like... that is well worth it.

    Now on the way back you could stop at the National Park Pub, or Possum shed at Westerway for a late afternoon cuppa.

    How nice would that be ?

    If you want a local guide or any more ideas please befriend me on facebook.

    http://www.facebook.com/dvhoney

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  3. Very well said Maydena. Paul The roadside devastation -junee cave at Maydena is a working forest(pine plantation) its just been harvested. I know that seating and tables will be going out there in the near future.

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  4. Oh my what a shame you felt this way! I haven't been there a while ( did grow up in the area) however did take my Old boss and partner to the Styx Some years ago when visiting Tas for a conference and although we thought we were lost, ( adding to the adventure) when we found the the big trees it was one of the most memorable experience ever. I dont think visiting wilderness should be about finding a table or shelter, that's why these are
    wild places. I thought it was terrific and can't wait to
    go back again.

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  5. Tourism for the rich and famous - who obviously don't like to see the wilderness in all it's glory, be it beautiful to behold or no - you may as well have shown them a dvd and stayed in the comfort of your own backyard sipping cool drinks under the umbrella............A bit of forward planning would have alleviated yor 'problems', or you could have embraced the spirit of the adventure and enjoyed your tour for what it was... a voyage of discovery....Tasmania has many hidden gems and I for one think it should remain this way, heavily franchised and commercialized Tourism kills the beauty within...........

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  6. there are public toilets at maydena and at westerway both are sign posted the devestation at junee caves was a plantation which is now being put back to natural bush but if u had dropped in at one of information places along the way you would of found out about all the info on the area as for seating plenty of natural seating in the wilderness to enjoy lunch

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